How to clean antique glass including Tiffany Studios Favrile and French Cameo Glass

Having sold many thousands of antique glass vases over the years, I’ve learned a lot about how to clean them from trial and error and a few mistakes. It also doesn’t hurt to have a Master’s Degree in Chemistry.

Most people are quite timid about using chemicals on glass. They’re afraid they’ll ruin the vase by removing the decoration or somehow damaging it. There are very few times this would actually be accurate. Cold painted decoration on a vase could be ruined by the use of some chemicals but Tiffany Favrile vases or French cameo vases by Daum, Galle, and others have no cold painting, so all of the steps I describe below are appropriate. If you suspect that your vase has cold painting on it, test a small area with one of the cleaners below, using a Q-tip. If the color of the paint comes off, use only the mildest cleaners.

Eco-House citrous thinner

Eco-House citrous thinner

The first step is to remove any substances that will dissolve in organic solvents such as mineral spirits or acetone (nail polish remover). There are some commercial products available that are also good, such as Goo Gone, available at stores like Office Depot, or online. Another product I like is citrous thinner, made from orange peels. It smells a lot better than the other solvents and is quite effective. Click here if you’d like to order it.

Start by looking for anything sticky with your eyes and your fingers. Take a rag or paper towel and use just a little solvent. Rub the affected area until the dirt or stickiness is gone. Mineral spirits is a gentler solvent than acetone, so try it first. Mineral spirits is especially good for removing the gum from labels. Use acetone second, if you need a stronger solvent. These various solvents will also remove crayon, sap, or any similar substance.

Easy-Off Fume Free

Easy-Off Fume Free

Next we’re ready for aqueous cleaning. I suggest you do this in a sink. Most of the cleaners will make the vase slippery, so be very careful not to lose control and break your vase. The gentlest cleaners are dishwashing liquid or Windex. I like to use an old toothbrush. Scrub the vase with the first cleaner and see if the dirt comes off. If it’s stubborn, you can proceed to the next level of cleaning power with commercial products like Scrubbing Bubbles or Dow Bathroom Cleaner. Repeat the process. Spray the vase, let it sit for a few minutes and clean with a toothbrush or other similar brush. If that’s not strong enough, you can go to the highest level of cleaning power — Easy-Off. There are two types of Easy-Off available. The blue can, labeled “Fume Free” is the one I recommend. (It’s not really fume free, but not too bad.) It’s powerful and should remove any leftover dirt. Finally rinse your vase thoroughly in plain water and dry completely with an old towel. If it’s safe, let it dry upside down. It’s a good idea to use gloves to protect your hands, an apron to protect your clothing and glasses to protect your eyes. Easy-Off in the yellow can is lye (sodium hydroxide). It’s very powerful. It will eat through your clothes and skin as well as severely damage your eyes. Immediately flush with plain water if you have an accident. You’ll know you’ve gotten it on your skin as it feels very slimy.

To clean the inside of a vase, you’ll need various brushes to reach hard-to-get-to areas. Just use one of the sprays above, let sit, and brush away. Justman Brush Company sells hundreds of different brushes.

A vase whose glass has been etched on the interior

A vase whose glass has been etched on the interior

Vases that have been used with water over the years can present bigger problems. The first problem is the inside of the vase may be scratched. The second and more serious problem goes under the general category of “sick” glass and may include etching of the glass interior or depositing of lime or other minerals, which usually shows as a white deposit. Cleaners will not effectively fix these problems. The only real way to treat problems of this sort is to go to an expert who can “tumble” the vase to resurface the interior. It’s basically the same as sandpapering the entire interior — great for a transparent vase, but not as good for a vase that has a finish on the interior, like an iridescent vase. Use this link for Paul Nulton, who does this kind of work.

Sometimes with a minimum amount of work, the results can be quite gratifying. Many vases were kept in homes where the owners smoked or the air was smoky from fireplaces or stoves. This shows as a dingy brown overall covering. Cleaning this off can sometimes reveal unexpected bright and beautiful colors.

Please send me your suggestions or questions about art glass, lamps, Louis Icart, shows, auctions, etc. If it’s interesting, I’ll answer your question in a future blog entry.

Call or write and let me know what you would like to buy, sell, or trade. philchasen@gmail or 516-922-2090. And please visit my website. chasenantiques.com

Knowledge is power, part V

Bob Ogorek

Bob Ogorek

Bob Ogorek of Plantation Galleries in Davison, Michigan, was a friend of mine. Bob died in 1999 and I miss him. He called me in early 1999 to tell me about a Tiffany chandelier that he had learned about in upstate New York. Since I was a lot closer than him, he asked if I could go look at it. I took a drive with my wife and met the couple selling the fixture in an upstate town. A blownout fixture of this type could easily damage, so I asked the owners to check the glass carefully in the sunlight to make sure it wasn’t cracked. They assured me that the condition was fine. I was concerned the whole time driving up because I figured the day would be wasted if the seller’s were wrong.

An original Tiffany Studios photograph from Tiffany at Auction, showing an almost identical fixture but without a long rod

An original Tiffany Studios photograph from the bookTiffany at Auction, showing an almost identical fixture but without a long rod

We met in the parking lot of a supermarket to inspect the lamp. I held it up to the sunlight and inspected it with a fine-tooth comb. Everything was in order and I was delighted. I had never seen a chandelier like this in person, only in books. It was beautiful and very unusual, with a hinged turtleback tile door on the bottom to change the light bulb. I bought it for approximately $20,000. My arrangement with Bob was that we would buy it together and own it 50/50. It was a very difficult item to pack because the bronze rod to the ceiling could not be detached from the glass and it was 32½” long, overall. The sellers packed the blownout glass end carefully in a box and let the bronze rod stick straight up from the box, which was no problem as they had a van. I only had a station wagon, so I carefully put the chandelier on its side and drove home.

I called Peggy Gilges of Christie’s New York to consign the lamp for auction and met her on a sunny day at their warehouse in Long Island City. I removed the fixture from my station wagon and showed it to Peggy. She was very impressed and was oohing and ahing (is that how you spell ahing?). I held it up to the sunlight to show her the beautiful color when lit and suddenly saw a crack in the glass! I was horrified! How could that happen? I was so careful with handling and transporting it. I immediately took it back and went home crushed. $20,000 down the drain. How was I going to tell Bob?

I called him when I got back to explain that it had probably cracked from the pressure of the rod on the glass when it was riding on its side. Needless to say, he was more than a little disappointed. He asked me if I had insurance. “Yes”, I said. “Can’t you make a claim?” I didn’t know if I could, so I called my agent and asked him. He thought that I was probably covered under the accidental damage section of my policy. So I filed a claim and my insurance company agreed that yes, this was a legitimate claim. “How much are you claiming?” “$60,000.” “But why, you only paid $20,000?” “Because what I paid is irrelevant. I’m the expert and I say it’s worth $60,000.” The claims adjuster at my insurance company didn’t want to hear that, so he hired independent appraisers who said it wasn’t worth $60,000, but more like $25-30,000. So I was at an impasse with my insurance company when my broker intervened. He asked me if I would accept my cost back, with no deductible, and the damaged fixture. Sounded fair to me, so he talked to the adjuster, who also agreed. They paid me back my $20,000 cost and allowed me to keep the fixture. I was now the co-owner of a damaged fixture, but with a new cost of zero.

I then turned to Sotheby’s in New York City. I brought the fixture to them and met with Barbara Deisroth and Greg Kuharik in their offices. I showed them the fixture and they oohed and ahed (that can’t be how you spell ahed, maybe aahed?). “But Barbara, there’s a big crack here.” “Well, Phil, it doesn’t look too bad to me and it’s mostly hidden by the bronze cage. I think my clients will still want to buy it.” So I consigned the fixture to them for their 20th Century Decorative Works of Art sale to be held on June 10, 1999, with an estimate of $20-30,000.

Sotheby's New York, lot 370, June 10, 1999

Sotheby's New York, lot 370, June 10, 1999

The Sotheby's catalog description for lot 370, with my hand-written final price

The Sotheby's catalog description for lot 370, with my hand-written final price

The auction day was fast approaching and I couldn’t wait. My reserve price was $20,000, which meant that if the bidding stopped before $20,000, Sotheby’s would return the item to me as unsold. The bidding started slowly, $12,000, $14,000, $16,000, $18,000, $20,000. Whew! Now at least it was sold. But the bidding kept going — $22,000, $24,000, $26,000, all the way to $50,000, which is $57,500, with the buyer’s premium included. How exciting! This was as good as going to the racetrack and seeing your horse win. Not only did I do well at the auction but I was totally vindicated! I had told my insurance company that the fixture was worth $60,000 in perfect condition and here it had just sold for $57,500 in damaged condition. Since our cost was zero, Bob and I split approximately $45,000 after paying Sotheby’s fees. I was one happy camper!

Knowledge is power. Sir Francis Bacon, Religious Meditations, Of Heresies, 1597.

Please send me your suggestions or questions about art glass, lamps, Louis Icart, shows, auctions, etc. If it’s interesting, I’ll answer your question in a future blog entry.

Call or write and let me know what you would like to buy, sell, or trade. philchasen@gmail or 516-922-2090. And please visit my website. chasenantiques.com

Tiffany candle lamps lesson

Electric, kerosene and candle versions of Tiffany Studios candle lamps

Electric, kerosene and candle versions of Tiffany Studios candle lamps

You would think that all Tiffany candle lamps use candles, but not all do. There are actually three versions — electric, kerosene and candle. All candle lamps have three basic components, the base, the insert and the shade. They may differ in the height of the base, the decoration on the insert and the decoration on the shade. The typical shade is undecorated iridescent gold with beautiful stretch glass.

Candle insert with pulled feather decoration

Candle insert with pulled feather decoration

The candle version has an insert with a spring loaded candle. As the candle burns, the spring pushes it up. The example pictured has pulled feather decoration on the glass insert. This is more common than the solid gold iridescent insert.

Gold iridescent insert with electric socket and pull chain

Gold iridescent insert with electric socket and pull chain

The electric version has an electric socket for a light bulb. The wire passes down from the socket, through a hole in the bottom of the insert where it enters the base and emerges from a hole in the base. The hole in the base is original from Tiffany Studios on all electric candle lamps. The example pictured has the rarer undecorated gold iridescent glass insert.

Pulled feather insert with kerosene burner and pulled feather decorated chimney

Pulled feather insert with kerosene burner and pulled feather decorated chimney

The kerosene version has a wick and a burner. The kerosene is stored in the insert, then absorbed by the wick and burned. This version has a fourth part, the chimney. It’s the rarest of the three versions and the most desirable, especially by collectors of miniature oil lamps.

No post on Monday, Labor Day. Tuesday’s post will be about the results of the Baltimore Summer Antiques Show.

Please send me your suggestions or questions about art glass, lamps, Louis Icart, shows, auctions, etc. If it’s interesting, I’ll answer your question in a future blog entry.

Call or write and let me know what you would like to buy, sell, or trade. philchasen@gmail or 516-922-2090. And please visit my website. chasenantiques.com

Setting up at the Baltimore Summer Antiques Show

We do get around in this business — Chicago last week, Southern California before that and Denver a few weeks ago. Now we’re in Baltimore for the biggest and best show of the summer. But since I think like the teacher I was, for me it’s not the last show of the summer, but the first show of the new season.

My booth is almost ready for the public

My booth is almost ready for the public

Setup is much more interesting when a show is large and filled with top quality dealers. Dealers spend much of the time shopping from each other. You can tell how good business is by the pace of activity. Business was good during setup, but not cutthroat, which happens when business is strong. On a personal level, I was successful in buying some very nice items, including a fantastic 14″ diameter Acorn floor lamp and some fine Galle vases. The lamp has removable accessories including a magazine rack, ashtray, and drink tray. 12″ diameter is the usual diameter for double-harp floor bases, so this one must have been special order.

The main aisle of the show, just before carpeting

The main aisle of the show, just before carpeting

The show looks fantastic, with incredible quality and diversity. If you’re coming, and I surely suggest you do, give yourself plenty of time to see everything. Fine hotels, right in the Inner Harbor, are available for $67-105/night on hotwire.com. The show opens at noon on Thursday and goes through Sunday, 6 PM. There are some special exhibitors who exhibit at very few shows, including M.S. Rau from New Orleans. The trip to this show will be worth it!

I’ll post results for the show on my Tuesday blog. Monday is Labor Day, so I won’t be writing an entry.

Derek Jeter at the plate at Camden Yards

Derek Jeter at the plate at Camden Yards

So what does a tired dealer do after setting up? He goes with his beautiful wife to see the Yankees destroy the Baltimore Orioles at Camden Yards, right next door. How about same day seats, bought on StubHub.com, directly behind home plate, row 5, at 1/15 the price of the same tickets at Yankee Stadium? It’s a tough business, but somebody has to do it.

Please send me your suggestions or questions about art glass, lamps, Louis Icart, shows, auctions, etc. If it’s interesting, I’ll answer your question in a future blog entry.

Call or write and let me know what you would like to buy, sell, or trade. philchasen@gmail or 516-922-2090. And please visit my website. chasenantiques.com

An interview with David Rago

David Rago

David Rago

David Rago is the owner of the Rago Arts and Auction Center, in Lambertville, NJ, specializing in 20th century design. He also appears on The Antiques Roadshow as an appraiser, specializing in ceramics, porcelain, 20th century furniture, and vintage wine.

I submitted several written questions to him.

Q. How has the recession affected your business?

Tiffany Studios Venetian table lamp, lot 409, June, 2009

Tiffany Studios Venetian table lamp, lot 409, June, 2009

A. The recession has affected our business in several ways. Most prominently, securing good consignments at reasonable price levels has become the most challenging part. We don’t believe we can BEGIN to evaluate pieces (in the form of estimates, which are driven by reserves) at 2008 or maybe even 2007 levels, which discourages many consignors from giving up pieces. I try to balance our and their expectations by saying that we often get prices at or above levels of a few years ago, but the approach now is to let pieces seek their prices through competitive bidding, NOT by starting at strong prices. We’ve found that buyers/bidders simply don’t want to be told that, to get their hands in the air for an opening bid, they have to be willing to pay anything near what used to be accepted retail. The old auction belief that, to get a record price you have to risk getting a record low price, has never, ever, been more true than now. We sold a Tiffany Venetian lamp in our last major sale (June 09) with an estimate of $27-32k.
Tiffany enamel on copper box, lot 393, June, 2009

Tiffany enamel on copper box, lot 393, June, 2009

It was a rare version with strong glass in pristine condition, fresh from an estate. It brought $81k, a record for the form. In the same sale we had a Tiffany enamel on copper box, almost as clean as the lamp, also fresh to the market, with a fairly strong estimate of $45–55k. Even though we had six “players”, I mean real bidders, on the phone, no one hit it once. We ended up selling it after the sale for under the low estimate. My contention was that, if the estimate were $30–40k, we’d have gotten the $50k for it.

Q. What areas show strength? Weakness?
A. Good things, in good condition, at reasonable prices, seem quite strong. Middle range things with condition issues, offered at regular prices, seem to languish. We just sold the estate of an old school New Hope dealer. The material had been off the market for 25 years and the family put no price restrictions on estimates and reserves. The sale was 100% sold and hammered near the high estimate plus the buyer’s premium of 20%. There was almost no glass in the collection, so this is relevant only in how it informs the marketplace. But we had a room full of active bidders, plus 100 people on the phone, plus 500 people on the Internet, for two solid days. It was like nothing had changed. But one thing HAD changed seriously, and that was the expectation of the seller.

Q. What do you foresee for the coming year?
A. The coming year is at the mercy of the economy, which is at the mercy of I don’t know what. Right now people (at least the ones buying art) mostly have more money than they did five years ago but they feel like they have less because they aren’t as rich as they were a year or two ago. Whether you own stock or real estate or middle range art, you in fact have less. Until people begin to feel comfortable with both their level of wealth AND the state of the economy, I don’t see great changes in the marketplace.

Please send me your suggestions or questions about art glass, lamps, Louis Icart, shows, auctions, etc. If it’s interesting, I’ll answer your question in a future blog entry.

Call or write and let me know what you would like to buy, sell, or trade. philchasen@gmail or 516-922-2090. And please visit my website. chasenantiques.com

Beware of Tiffany Studios fakes, especially on eBay

Tiffany fake #1

Tiffany fake #1

Tiffany fake #3

Tiffany fake #3

Tiffany fake #2

Tiffany fake #2

Thanks to Hank Hancock for the idea for this blog and the photos.

The problem with fake Tiffany Favrile glass items is not widespread, but you certainly want to avoid becoming one of the people who gets stuck with one. The following examples have all been for sale on eBay recently. It’s hard to say whether the sellers are nefarious and know they are selling reproductions or just ignorant, but my experience tells me a fair percentage of them know the truth.

Tiffany fake #4

Tiffany fake #4

Tiffany fake #6

Tiffany fake #6

Tiffany fake #5

Tiffany fake #5

So how can you tell? Sorry, but there’s no easy answer. Familiarity with the shapes, colors and decorations of authentic Tiffany Favrile glass is the best way to tell. To the trained eye, these items stick out like sore thumbs. It’s not necessary to look at fake signatures if you already know the item is fake just by looking at it. But there’s the rub. It takes quite a bit of time and effort to train one’s eye.

So what do you do? You have to buy from reputable dealers, collectors and auction houses that will absolutely guarantee the authenticity of the items they sell. Anyone can make a mistake, but only an honest person will make good on correcting a mistake, should one occur. This advice may be self-serving, but nonetheless, it’s absolutely true. Remember the old adage “If you don’t know your art, know your dealer”.

Fake Tiffany counterclockwise signature

Fake Tiffany counterclockwise signature

Also look at Tiffany signatures. 99% of the time, an authentic signature is counter-clockwise. Many fake signatures are clockwise. The forger for this vase knew to make it counterclockwise, but it’s still an awful fake. After looking at enough signatures, it gets increasingly easy to recognize a genuine one.

Please send me your suggestions or questions about art glass, lamps, Louis Icart, shows, auctions, etc. If it’s interesting, I’ll answer your question in a future blog entry.

Call or write and let me know what you would like to buy, sell, or trade. philchasen@gmail or 516-922-2090. And please visit my website. chasenantiques.com

So-so results at the Pasadena Antiques Show

The Pasadena Antiques Show, August 9, 2009

The Pasadena Antiques Show, August 9, 2009

It’s really tough work sitting at a show when there’s very little to do. Kinda  like Chinese torture.  The show opened on Friday. I wish I knew why. There were very few people and of those who showed, there seemed to be even fewer buyers. 8 hours of sitting. It’s easy when people are asking questions and making purchases, but not this Friday.

Irene Stella seems to have it right. She’s the promoter of the Pier Show in NYC. It’s a 2-day show. The public comes en masse and everyone makes their decisions quickly whether to purchase or not. It’s good for the public and good for the dealers. I would like to see the Pasadena show shortened to 2 days, but it’ll never happen.

Saturday was much more lively. Attendance was good, interest was good, especially in Tiffany Studios desk set items, and sales were decent. Now if only Sunday would be like Saturday, the show would have been good, but alas, no dice. Attendance wasn’t very good and interest was poor.

In my opinion, the main problem is that there isn’t just one important show in the LA area that everyone MUST attend. There’s one little show here and one little show there and as a result, LA is a difficult city in which to do well. It doesn’t matter how wealthy the residents are if they don’t show up. I say that because I’m always amused by show promoters when they try to convince me that I should do a new show in some city. “Do you know what the average income is within a 50-mile radius of the show?” I couldn’t care less, because that’s not what’s most important. It’s getting those people to attend the show that’s most important and that’s way tougher than it sounds.

On to Chicago in a couple of weeks and then Baltimore over the Labor Day weekend. That’s the one I’m looking most forward to. It’s big and important, so everyone shows up. It doesn’t guarantee I’ll do well, but at least I’ll have a fighting chance.

Please send me your suggestions or questions about art glass, lamps, Louis Icart, shows, auctions, etc. If it’s interesting, I’ll answer your question in a future blog entry.

Call or write and let me know what you would like to buy, sell, or trade. philchasen@gmail or 516-922-2090.

Tiffany Studios numbering explained

A typical Tiffany Studios numbered signature

A typical Tiffany Studios numbered signature

Tiffany Studios numbered their vases. Each number is a unique registry number that corresponds to that vase only. The earliest vases from 1892-3 had numbers and no letters.  In 1894, the  prefix A was introduced with the first vase being A1. Each subsequent vase received the next consecutive number until A9999 was reached and then the next letter, B, was used. When the entire alphabet was completed, the prefix letter was changed to a suffix letter, so the next number after Z9999 would be 1A, followed by 2A, etc. After 9999A, the next number would be 1B, until the entire alphabet would be used up.

Tiffany vases can be dated according to a chart in the Robert Koch book, Louis C. Tiffany’s Glass Bronzes Lamps, on page 56. Prefix A corresponds to 1894, suffix A to 1906, etc.

A typical Tiffany Studios unnumbered signature

A typical Tiffany Studios unnumbered signature

Items without numbers were generally utilitarian items like bowls or glasses that came in sets. These were part of general production and usually unnumbered. The signatures might be “L.C.T.” or “L.C.T. Favrile” or “L.C.Tiffany Favrile” or some other variation.

A typical Tiffany Studios signature with a shape number

A typical Tiffany Studios signature with a shape number

Later items, especially pastel ones, have numbers that do not include a letter. These are shape numbers, not registry numbers. For example, 1881 is a trumpet vase and is repeated on all trumpet vases of the same size and shape. (Credit Gordon (Hank) Hancock for this information. Hank is writing a book on Tiffany pastel glass that will be very useful.)

A typical Tiffany Studios late production compound number signature

A typical Tiffany Studios late production compound number signature

Compound signatures include the shape number first and then the serial number. This system was developed late into Tiffany production, so it will not be found on earlier vases. The example pictured shows that the vase is shape 1525, with serial number 9008M. To the best of my knowledge, this has never been explained before in writing.

Please send me your suggestions or questions about art glass, lamps, Louis Icart, shows, auctions, etc. If it’s interesting, I’ll answer your question in a future blog entry.

Call or write and let me know what you would like to buy, sell, or trade. philchasen@gmail or 516-922-2090. And please visit my website. chasenantiques.com

Tiffany Favrile shades

Tiffany 12" diam. blue Favrile shade with carved insects

Tiffany 12" diam. blue Favrile shade with carved insects

Tiffany Studios is most famous for leaded glass lamps, but they produced lamps with hand-blown shades, called Favrile glass shades.  Most of them are similar in shape (domical) and decoration (wave decoration).  They fit into harp lamps or counterbalance lamps, either in table or floor versions.  Most of the available supply are gold decorated, with green decorated shades being a bit rarer, followed by blue shades (rare) and finally red shades (extremely rare).

Occasionally the shades were blown with a flaw, such as an air bubble or an impurity.  Tiffany Studios made lemonade with these lemons, by hand-carving an insect over the defect.  The flaw would become the body of the insect.  Even though these shades were originally flawed, they are now worth a premium because of the added insect.

On rarer occasions, perfect shades were more intricately carved with leaf and vine decoration or insects.  The carving adds significant rarity and therefore, value, to them.

Tiffany 10" diameter blue Favrile shade with hand-carved dragonfly

Tiffany 10" diameter blue Favrile shade with hand-carved dragonfly

So to sum up, an undecorated shade is the least valuable, then a decorated shade.  Then comes the color, with the rarer colors worth more.  Then comes added details, like carving, adding still more value.  If one could find a red decorated shade with wheel-carving of insects, that would be something really special.  In all my experience, I’ve never seen one, but I sure would love to.

Please visit chasenantiques.com.

If you like my blog, please recommend it to others.  Email me with your comments.  philchasen@gmail.com